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Singing the Blues...

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What is it with restaurants with the word "Blue" in their name?  Must be something because I seem to like them all: Blue Smoke, Blue Ribbon, Blue Fin and don't even get me started on Blue 9 Burger.

I now have the honor of adding Blue Hill to the list.  Make that TOP of the list.  Wow, what a meal.  My dining companion and I, since it was our first time there, both opted for the "Farmer's Feast" tasting menu with the addition, at the behest of a friend, of "This Morning's Farm Egg" worked into the menu wherever the chef saw fit.

Blue Hill is known for their "vegetables on a fence"-- seasonal veggies served on a block of wood with sharp spikes sticking out of it on which the vegetables are, um, impaled for lack of a better word.  Lucky for us, it's the heart of tomato season so we were presented with an amuse of Cherry Tomatoes on a Fence.



So sweet and ripe, the tomatoes were served as nature made them, nothing else added or needed.

Next up, "V-8" and Kale Chips.  This was delicious.  If V-8 actually tasted like this, I'd have a fridge stocked with the stuff and we were pondering how it would taste as a base for a Bloody Mary (probably amazing).  The "chips" were translucent pieces of dried kale, salty and wonderful.



Following the kale was something featured in last month's Gourmet: petite tomato "burgers"* on almond financiers.  Tomato with goat cheese and a sweet almond flavor, sounds like an odd combo, doesn't it?  Somehow it works.  Wish these had been bigger.  This was also served with a special butter, tomato powder and whipped lardo to use on the table bread.



* recipe for the tomato burgers can be found here

Continuing with the tomato theme, our next dish was a salad of heirloom tomatos with grilled fruit, yogurt and tomato sorbet.  Any way you prepare them, I love tomatoes, especially the farm fresh heirloom variety.  Grilled fruit-- watermelon and peach-- was nice but I could've done without it; the sorbet was interesting and refreshing.



Following this was what was in my opinion, the pièce de résistance: "This Morning's Farm Egg".  This was the only a la carte item we ordered and we just ordered one to share.  I think we both agreed it was the best thing we had all night.  So simple-- just a perfectly poached egg atop corn, lardons, foraged mushrooms in an herb broth-- but the flavors and the different textures just complemented each other beautifully.  I could've eaten five more.


I'd never heard of wolf fish until my meal at Blue Hill.  It's a scary looking bottom feeder, similar to a catfish, but waaay tastier.  It was very meaty and was prepared, as always here, simply, over a bed of cherry tomatoes and ginger broth.



Poussin, cornish game hen, was next on the list.  It was served skinless and sliced over a succotash of corn, lima beans and golden raisins and then with the skin on, over a sauce.  Tender and delicious and the succotash was great.



Easing us into dessert was the Strawberry Sangria Soup (which, I hate to say, I preferred to the actual dessert proper).  We were served a scoop of mint sorbet and fresh strawberries in a shallow bowl and the server poured the sangria over it.  I am a big fan of sangria in general and this preparation was outstanding.



I'd heard such wonderful things about the desserts at Blue Hill but I must say I was rather disappointed with what came as part of the tasting menu, a concotion of grilled peach over a sort of sponge cake and peach sorbet over maple (?) granita.  I can't exactly put my finger on it, but it just didn't do it for me and I only ate a few bites.



All in all though, a thoroughly enjoyable meal that, for the most part, lived up to my high expecations for this place.  And I think that along with Telepan, the tasting menu here is one of the best bargains in town.

Blue Hill NYC
75 Washington Place
New York City 10011
212/ 539-1776

Oinks: 4.5/5
Why Bother: food that's about as fresh as you're going to find in a NYC kitchen, simply prepared to highlight the flavor of the food
Average Setback: tasting menu for 2 people + 1 a la carte app and 1 glass of cava, approx $222

Burger Joint Disappoints

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Ok, maybe disappoint is a bit harsh.  And relatively speaking, if I hadn't expected so much, I wouldn't have been disappointed, right?

Got there early, just after 5, which seems to be a good time to go... plenty of tables available and no line to wait in.  We placed our order (I can't believe there's no bacon cheeseburger option!) and sat down.  We both got the same thing, a cheeseburger-- mine with "the works" (onion, lettuce, tomato, pickle, ketchup & mustard SANS mayo) and his with mayo and some veggies; chocolate shakes and we split an order of fries.



Since our table was right off the teensy tiny kitchen area, they brought our food to our table (usually they just call out your name and you pick it up at the order counter), which was nice.  Our shakes were up right away, the actual food a few minutes after that.  Let me start by saying the shakes* are PERFECT.  Thick and chocolately but not overly sweet, just right.  Just like the five dollar shakes in Pulp Fiction.  We both agreed on that.  The burgers were okay... I still needed to add much more ketchup to what already came on the burger; he liberally added salt and pepper to his.  In a word: seasoning.  It was all but absent.  The fries were good-- thin McDonald's looking ones but of course, much fresher and less greasy.  Good portion size.

The Burger Joint (in Le Parker Meridien hotel)
entrances to hotel on both 56th and 57th St btwn 6th & 7th Aves
212/ 245-5000
N/Q/R/W to 57th St/ 7th Ave or F to 57th St/6th Ave

Oinks: 3.5/5
Why Bother: awesome chocolate shakes; good fries
Average Setback: $28.50 for 2 cheeseburgers, 2 chocolate shakes and 1 order of fries

* milkshakes available after 1:30PM only

Monkeytown: No Monkeying Around Here

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Ok, well, maybe a bit.  But not with the food, that's solid.

Monkeytown, venerable Williamsburg art space meets restaurant, is open again after a month or so long renovation.  It doesn't look all that different inside but the menu (and even the drink menu) has been completely revamped.  I've always been a fan of the food there, it sort of matches the quirky, off beat film screenings and performances in the back room.  The menu is now divided into three distinct categories: Earth (veggies and quasi-meat), Land (meat) and Sea (self-explanatory) and then subdivided into appetizers and mains. 

The other night I tried two apps from the Land category: the Grilled Flat Bread with duck confit, caramelized endive and fontina and the Seared Foie Gras with banana guacamole and habanero syrup.  Hands down winner is the flat bread; the portion was huge and the duck was super flavorful and not at all dry.  Now, the foie gras had a strike against it before it even arrived: I'm not a huge fan of foie gras in non-terrine form; there's something about the consistency I just can't wrap my mouth around (tho I did finish it all as befits a foodnerd!).  Aside from that, there was still something a bit off... the flavors just didn't mesh all that well.  Firstly, the banana guac was more like a salsa-- it was hardly even mashed-- and then the habanero syrup was overpowering at times.  A friend had the Wild Mushroom Quinotto, a risotto-like dish made with quinoa instead of rice, goat cheese and asparagus and quite delicious.  I went back again tonite and had, again from the Land menu, the Soy Braised Short Rib on top of curried watermelon as an appetizer and Grilled Karabuto Pork Chop which came with cheddar grits and collards; both were excellent.  I'm usually wary of grits north of the Mason Dixon line-- especially with grandparents who hail from North Carolina-- but these were great.

My favorite drink, the Blackberry Bramble, sadly was nowhere to be seen on this new drink menu so I opted for a Basil Dark & Stormy which is dark rum with basil, molasses and ginger; pretty nice and not as herb-y as I thought it might be, which was good.

Last but not least: dessert.  Always one of M-Town's strong points, I was bummed I didn't have room for any the other nite but tonight I was not to be deterred by an almost full stomach, I just had to try one of the new items and after much decision, settled on the Caramelized Banana & Walnut Empanda with cinnamon ice cream which was gone from my plate it in about a minute.  Need I say more?

Monkeytown
58 N 3rd St (btwn Wythe & Kent)
Brooklyn, NY 11211
718/ 384-1369

Oinks: 4/5
Why Bother: consistently tasty food; decent prices; interesting roster of events
Average Setback: 2 apps & a cocktail-- $31; 2nd visit: 1 app, 1 entree, 1 drink + dessert-- $50; a double feature of Dirty Dancing & it's Bollywood counerpart screened simutaneously -- priceless.

Sundays and Sundaes and Cones

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As befits one of the world's food meccas, New York City is brimming with ice cream shops.  Arguments abound as to which shop is better than which and sometimes, even which branch within a particular chain is the best.

There are the heavies like Ciao Bella and Il Laboratorio del Gelato, the new comer gelato faves, Grom and Capogiro, and then there are some which are just under the radar, including one of my favorites, East Village shop Sundaes and Cones.

On an unassuming sleepy stretch of East 10th Street, you'll find a little flag in shades of neutral, somewhat unusal for an ice cream shop, hanging over inviting benches and potted flowers.  Inside, you find a tidy, bright little shop with white washed walls and large windows, modern but not too sleek.



In addition to staples such as chocolate or cookie dough, there are a lot of seasonal flavors-- corn is one of my current favorites-- and many Asian influenced flavors, once only available at places like Chinatown Ice Cream Factory, such as red bean, taro root, black sesame, wasabi (yes) or lychee (all delicious, by the way).



As any self-respecting authentic ice cream shop should, in addition to scoops and sundaes, this shop also offers egg creams, shakes, floats, the whole works.  Coffee and Euro style hot chocolate is also available as are custom ice cream cakes.  There are a plethora of toppings though I prefer this ice cream unadulterated.  Save the crunchies for Carvel.
 
Prices are on par with most city shops... beginning at about $3.50 for a sizable single scoop in a sugar cone (and the sugar cones here are some of the best I've tasted) and going up from there.



Sundaes and Cones
95 East 10th St
btwn 3rd & 4th Ave
NYC 1003
212/ 979-9398
L to 3rd Ave | 6 to Astor Pl. | R or W to 8th St.

Oinks: 5/5
Average Setback: $3.50 for a scoop in a sugar cone
Why Bother: delicious house-made unusal flavors
Seems that food from a truck is all the rage these days and the latest to make it's way into my neighborhood is a taco truck that you can find most afternoons on the corner of Bedford & N 6th. I'd passed by it on several occassions, usually on my way to or from someplace to eat and kept making a mental note to try it sometime soon. I finally tried it the other day and it was good enough that I went back two days later.



On my first visit, I had a pork taco, a fish taco (tilapia, grilled to order) and a side of rice & beans. While both tacos were good, the fish was the definite winner for me. The rice and beans were good as well tho there was a bit too much cotijo cheese on top, making it extra salty. When I returned, I just stuck with the fist tacos and got an ear of Mexican corn, rolled in a combo of mayo & lime juice, cotijo cheese, salt & pepper and liberally sprinkled with chili powder.
 


Next time I visit, maybe I'll try a burrito. Oh, and for all of my strictly veggie friends out there, this truck has seitan tacos and burritos.

'burg Taco Truck (not sure if it has a proper name, but this is what I call it :)
Bedford Ave @ N 6th St Brooklyn, NY 11211
Directions: L to Bedford Ave Hours: usually 3-10PM
Oinks: 4/5 Why Bother: tasty, cheap and fresh; interesting vegetarian option
Average Setback: 2 tacos & a side is between $7 and $9

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