Singing the Blues...

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What is it with restaurants with the word "Blue" in their name?  Must be something because I seem to like them all: Blue Smoke, Blue Ribbon, Blue Fin and don't even get me started on Blue 9 Burger.

I now have the honor of adding Blue Hill to the list.  Make that TOP of the list.  Wow, what a meal.  My dining companion and I, since it was our first time there, both opted for the "Farmer's Feast" tasting menu with the addition, at the behest of a friend, of "This Morning's Farm Egg" worked into the menu wherever the chef saw fit.

Blue Hill is known for their "vegetables on a fence"-- seasonal veggies served on a block of wood with sharp spikes sticking out of it on which the vegetables are, um, impaled for lack of a better word.  Lucky for us, it's the heart of tomato season so we were presented with an amuse of Cherry Tomatoes on a Fence.



So sweet and ripe, the tomatoes were served as nature made them, nothing else added or needed.

Next up, "V-8" and Kale Chips.  This was delicious.  If V-8 actually tasted like this, I'd have a fridge stocked with the stuff and we were pondering how it would taste as a base for a Bloody Mary (probably amazing).  The "chips" were translucent pieces of dried kale, salty and wonderful.



Following the kale was something featured in last month's Gourmet: petite tomato "burgers"* on almond financiers.  Tomato with goat cheese and a sweet almond flavor, sounds like an odd combo, doesn't it?  Somehow it works.  Wish these had been bigger.  This was also served with a special butter, tomato powder and whipped lardo to use on the table bread.



* recipe for the tomato burgers can be found here

Continuing with the tomato theme, our next dish was a salad of heirloom tomatos with grilled fruit, yogurt and tomato sorbet.  Any way you prepare them, I love tomatoes, especially the farm fresh heirloom variety.  Grilled fruit-- watermelon and peach-- was nice but I could've done without it; the sorbet was interesting and refreshing.



Following this was what was in my opinion, the pièce de résistance: "This Morning's Farm Egg".  This was the only a la carte item we ordered and we just ordered one to share.  I think we both agreed it was the best thing we had all night.  So simple-- just a perfectly poached egg atop corn, lardons, foraged mushrooms in an herb broth-- but the flavors and the different textures just complemented each other beautifully.  I could've eaten five more.


I'd never heard of wolf fish until my meal at Blue Hill.  It's a scary looking bottom feeder, similar to a catfish, but waaay tastier.  It was very meaty and was prepared, as always here, simply, over a bed of cherry tomatoes and ginger broth.



Poussin, cornish game hen, was next on the list.  It was served skinless and sliced over a succotash of corn, lima beans and golden raisins and then with the skin on, over a sauce.  Tender and delicious and the succotash was great.



Easing us into dessert was the Strawberry Sangria Soup (which, I hate to say, I preferred to the actual dessert proper).  We were served a scoop of mint sorbet and fresh strawberries in a shallow bowl and the server poured the sangria over it.  I am a big fan of sangria in general and this preparation was outstanding.



I'd heard such wonderful things about the desserts at Blue Hill but I must say I was rather disappointed with what came as part of the tasting menu, a concotion of grilled peach over a sort of sponge cake and peach sorbet over maple (?) granita.  I can't exactly put my finger on it, but it just didn't do it for me and I only ate a few bites.



All in all though, a thoroughly enjoyable meal that, for the most part, lived up to my high expecations for this place.  And I think that along with Telepan, the tasting menu here is one of the best bargains in town.

Blue Hill NYC
75 Washington Place
New York City 10011
212/ 539-1776

Oinks: 4.5/5
Why Bother: food that's about as fresh as you're going to find in a NYC kitchen, simply prepared to highlight the flavor of the food
Average Setback: tasting menu for 2 people + 1 a la carte app and 1 glass of cava, approx $222

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